If you're tired of missing waves and watching everyone else have a blast, it might be time to swallow your pride and look into a cheater board. I know, the name sounds a bit like a jab, but honestly, it's one of those labels that actually signifies a smarter way to surf. For years, I was that guy trying to force a high-performance shortboard into two-foot, mushy summer surf. I'd paddle until my lungs burned, miss the section, and then sit out the back feeling grumpy. Then, I finally caved and bought something with a bit more volume, and it changed everything.
The whole concept of a "cheater" board isn't about breaking the rules of some secret surfing handbook. It's just about acknowledging that most of us aren't competing on the world tour and that having a bit of extra foam under our chests makes the entire experience way more enjoyable. If you're not sure if you need one, or if you're still clinging to that 24-liter potato chip board because you think it makes you look "pro," let's have a real talk about why these boards are the best thing to happen to recreational surfing in a long time.
What Exactly Are We Talking About?
So, what is a cheater board anyway? Usually, it's a mid-length, a thick-cut egg, or a hybrid shape that carries way more volume than your standard performance board. It's that sweet spot between a longboard and a shortboard. You've got enough length to get into waves early, but enough maneuverability so you don't feel like you're trying to turn a school bus.
Most of these boards have a wider nose and a flatter rocker. The flatness is key because it gives you that "glide" factor. When you're paddling, you're not pushing water; you're skimming over it. It feels like you have a little motor in your arms. Some people call them "funboards," which is a bit of a dorky name, but it's accurate. They are designed for one thing: catching as many waves as humanly possible with the least amount of frustration.
The Foam is Your Friend
There's this weird stigma in some surfing circles that "real" surfers should be on the smallest board possible. It's a total ego trap. I've seen guys who can barely stand up struggling on pro-model boards because they want to look the part on the beach. Meanwhile, the older guy on the 7'2" cheater board is catching three waves for every one they even sniff at.
More foam means more buoyancy. More buoyancy means you're sitting higher in the water, which makes it easier to build momentum. When that little ripple comes through that wouldn't even register on a shortboard, the cheater board catches the energy and starts moving. It's basically like having a head start in a race.
Why It's Not Actually Cheating
The term "cheater board" comes from the idea that you're gaining an unfair advantage over the conditions. But here's the thing—surfing is supposed to be fun. Unless you're being paid to ride a specific shape, the only person you're "cheating" is yourself if you stay frustrated in the lineup.
Using a board that fits your skill level and the day's conditions isn't cheating; it's being smart. If the waves are waist-high and crumbling, a high-performance thruster is the wrong tool for the job. It's like trying to drive a Formula 1 car through a muddy field. Sure, the car is fast in the right place, but here? You just want a Jeep. A cheater board is the Jeep of the ocean. It goes everywhere, handles the bumps, and doesn't care if things get a little messy.
Getting Your Wave Count Up
Let's be honest about the math. If you go for a two-hour session and catch two waves, you've spent most of your time sitting or paddling. If you take out a board with more volume and catch twelve waves, your "surf time" just went up by 600%.
That extra time on your feet is where you actually get better. You learn how to read the face of the wave, how to shift your weight, and how to find the pocket. You can't learn any of that while you're sitting on your board watching a set pass you by. I found that my shortboarding actually improved after I spent a summer on a mid-length because I was finally getting enough "reps" to understand the mechanics of a turn without panicking.
The Versatility Factor
One of the coolest things about a good cheater board is how versatile it is. You don't just use it on the tiny days. I've taken my 7'0" egg out on overhead days, and it's a total blast. Because you get into the wave so much earlier, you have time to set your line and really enjoy the drop. It's a much more relaxed, soulful way to surf compared to the frantic "pop-up and pump" style you see on smaller boards.
It's also the perfect "travel board." If you're going on a trip and can only bring one bag, a hybrid mid-length is usually the safest bet. It'll handle the small stuff at the resort beach and won't let you down if a decent swell pulse shows up. You don't have to worry about whether the waves will be "big enough" for your board to work.
Longevity in the Water
We're not all eighteen anymore. As we get older, our shoulders get a bit cranky and our pop-up slows down just a fraction. A cheater board extends your "surfing life." It lets you stay in the water longer because you aren't exhausting yourself just trying to stay afloat.
I've met guys in their 70s who are still out there every single day because they moved to higher-volume shapes. They aren't trying to do air reverses; they're just enjoying the glide. There's a certain beauty in that. It's about longevity and the pure joy of being in the salt water.
Choosing the Right One for You
If you're looking to add one to your quiver, don't just grab the first big board you see. Look for something that still has a bit of a pulled-in tail if you want to be able to turn, or a wide square tail if you just want maximum stability.
A lot of shapers are doing "performance mid-lengths" now, which are basically just cheater board designs with better rail profiles and fin setups. You can get them as single fins for that classic feel, or as 2+1 setups (a big center fin with two small side bites) for a bit more grip and drive.
- Size: Aim for something about 12-18 inches longer than your height if you're coming off a shortboard.
- Volume: Don't be afraid of the numbers. If you usually ride 30 liters, try something in the 45-50 range.
- Weight: A little extra weight can actually help with momentum, so don't feel like you need the lightest carbon-fiber tech.
Final Thoughts
At the end of the day, no one is handing out trophies at the local beach break for who has the smallest board. The person having the most fun is the real winner. Switching to a cheater board isn't an admission of defeat; it's an admission that you value your time in the water and want to make the most of every ripple that comes your way.
So, next time you're looking at the surf and it looks a bit "meh," don't leave your gear in the car. Just grab the board with the extra foam, paddle out, and start catching everything. Your shoulders will thank you, and you'll probably find yourself smiling a whole lot more. After all, the best surfer in the water is the one with the biggest grin—and usually, they're the ones riding the most foam.